Broody Hen Care: Adding Chicks To The Brood

how to add chicks to a broody hen

If you want to add chicks to your flock, there are several ways to do it. You can buy day-old chicks at a feed store or online from a hatchery or breeder, hatch some fertile eggs under a broody hen, or hatch eggs in an incubator. If you want to use a broody hen as a surrogate mother, it's important to ensure that she is committed to being broody and has everything she needs to be a successful surrogate. You can test her commitment by removing her from her nest and seeing if she returns within 20 to 30 minutes, moving her to a brooding pen, or giving her fake eggs to incubate. Once you're sure she's committed, you can introduce the chicks slowly and at night when she's drowsy or asleep. It's also a good idea to have a backup brooder with a heat lamp in case the mother hen rejects the chicks. While some sources advise against adding chicks at night, many chicken keepers have successfully added chicks to broody hens this way.

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Test the hen's broodiness

Broodiness is triggered by hormones, daylight, and the availability of eggs to sit on. It is a natural, instinctual behaviour for hens, though some breeds of chickens are more inclined to go broody than others. Usually, hens go broody in the summer months, however, it can also happen during other times of the year.

  • The hen will spend lots of time in the nesting box, and refuse to leave. She will leave occasionally to eat and drink but will quickly return.
  • The hen will consume very little food and water.
  • The hen may pick at her chest/belly feathers.
  • The hen will fluff up her feathers when approached.
  • The hen will flatten herself in the nesting box to cover her eggs as adequately as possible.
  • The hen will make noises, hisses, and growls when aggravated or approached.
  • The hen will exhibit defensive behaviours like pecking, biting, and attempting to peck.
  • The hen will make broody clucks when off the nest.
  • The hen will make large and extremely smelly "broody poops".

If you suspect your hen is broody, you can perform the "Removal Test". If you gently remove a truly broody hen from the nesting box, she will almost immediately try to return to it. This strong urge to get back on the nest is a key indicator.

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Prepare a safe space

It is important to prepare a safe space for the broody hen and the chicks before introducing them. Here are some steps to create a safe environment:

Firstly, ensure the hen is committed to being broody. This can be tested by removing the hen from her nest and observing if she returns within 20 to 30 minutes. Another method is to move the hen to a new nesting area and see if she settles down. Additionally, providing her with 'dummy eggs' or fake eggs for a few days can help determine if she will commit to incubating them. A truly broody hen will stay devoted to her nest and is more likely to be a reliable mother.

Secondly, set up a brooding pen or a private crate for the hen to settle in before introducing the chicks. This provides her with a safe and comfortable space to adjust to her new role. The brooding pen should be equipped with fresh bedding, a chick starter feeder, and a chick waterer. It is important to remove any layer feed that the chicks can access, as it contains too much calcium for young chicks.

Additionally, it is recommended to have a backup plan in case the hen rejects the chicks. Set up a separate brooder with a heat lamp to keep the chicks warm and safe. This can be used as a temporary space until an alternative solution is found.

Furthermore, it is crucial to introduce the chicks to the broody hen at the right time. While some sources suggest adding the chicks at night when the hen is drowsy or asleep, others advise against this, as there is a risk of the chicks being rejected or abandoned during the night. Instead, consider introducing them during the day when you can monitor the situation and intervene if necessary.

Lastly, it is important to ensure the broody hen is in good health before becoming a surrogate. A healthy hen will have sufficient fat reserves, be parasite-free, and be in good physical condition to endure the demanding incubation period.

By following these steps, you can create a safe and conducive environment for both the broody hen and the chicks, increasing the chances of a successful adoption.

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Choose the right time

The best time to add chicks to a broody hen is when she is committed to being broody. Some hens think they want to brood, but then they give up after a few days and abandon the nest. To test whether your hen is truly broody, you can try the following:

  • Remove the hen from her nest and see if she returns within 20 to 30 minutes.
  • Move the hen to a brooding pen to see if she settles down in a new nesting area.
  • Give the hen 'dummy' eggs for a few days to see if she will incubate them without abandoning them.

If your hen passes these tests, you can be reasonably sure that she is committed to being broody and will be a reliable mother. It is also important to ensure that the hen is in good health before she becomes broody, as this can be gruelling for her. A healthy broody hen will have plenty of fat reserves, be parasite-free, and be in good physical condition.

Broodiness often occurs in the spring, when longer daylight hours and warmer temperatures trigger the instinct to brood. However, it can also happen at other times of the year. If your hen goes broody when you don't want her to, you may need to take steps to break her of her broodiness, as it can be bad for her health.

Once you are sure that your hen is committed to being broody, the best time to add chicks is during the day, when you can monitor the situation. Some sources suggest adding chicks at night, when the hen is asleep, but this can be risky. If the hen rejects a chick, or the chick tumbles out of the nest, it could be killed by another flock member or die of cold before morning.

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Monitor the hen's reaction

When introducing baby chicks to a broody hen, it is important to monitor the hen's reaction to ensure the safety of the chicks and facilitate a smooth integration. Here are some detailed guidelines to follow:

Timing of Introduction

The timing of introducing the chicks is crucial for monitoring the hen's reaction effectively. While some sources suggest introducing the chicks during the evening hours or at night when the hen is asleep, others caution against this practice due to the risk of rejection or the chick tumbling out of the nest. Instead, it is recommended to introduce the chicks during the daytime, preferably in the morning, when you can closely observe the hen's behaviour and intervene if necessary.

Initial Reaction

When you first place the chicks under the broody hen, be prepared for some defensive pecking from the hen as she adjusts to the new additions. This is a normal reaction, and you can use your hand to shield the chicks gently while slowly adding them to the nest. After placing each chick, take a moment to observe the hen's behaviour to ensure she doesn't get up and freak out or exhibit aggressive behaviour towards the chicks.

Gradual Integration

Introducing chicks to a broody hen should be done gradually to avoid overwhelming the hen and giving her time to bond with each chick. Add the chicks one by one, allowing the hen to adjust to each new chick before introducing the next one. This slow process helps prevent rejection and gives the hen time to bond with her new brood.

Safe Environment

Creating a safe and separate environment for the broody hen and her chicks is essential, especially during the initial days. Consider setting up a dog crate or a wire kennel inside the coop to provide a comfortable and secure space for the new family. This setup allows the hen to focus on caring for her chicks without the stress of other flock members interfering. Keep the crate door open after a few days to allow them to venture out gradually while still having a safe space to retreat to.

Monitoring Behaviour

Closely observe the hen's behaviour towards the chicks over the next few days. A broody hen that has accepted her brood will exhibit protective and nurturing behaviour, keeping them warm and fed. However, if the hen starts pecking the chicks excessively or shows signs of aggression, immediate separation is necessary to prevent harm to the chicks. Some hens may reject the chicks if they recognise they are not their own, so vigilance is crucial during the initial integration period.

Integration with the Flock

Once the broody hen has accepted the chicks and they have formed a bond, the next step is to introduce them to the rest of the flock gradually. Expect some stand-offish behaviour and minor squabbles as the older hens establish their pecking order. Monitor these interactions closely, and if prolonged fights or bullying occur, separate the new family and reintroduce them slowly, giving the flock time to adjust to the new dynamics.

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Provide the right food and water

When providing food and water for a broody hen and her chicks, there are several factors to consider. Firstly, it is important to ensure that the hen always has access to fresh, cool water. Dehydration can be dangerous for hens, so water should be readily available at all times.

Secondly, in terms of food, a broody hen's feed intake decreases by about 80% compared to her usual diet, and she stops laying eggs while brooding. Therefore, it is recommended to feed her chick starter ration, which is higher in protein and lower in calcium than layer feed. Scratch can also be offered as a high-carbohydrate option to provide extra calories during this reduced feed intake period.

Keep the food and water close to the nest, as some broody hens may not venture far from the nest to eat or drink. It is also important to ensure that the food and water containers cannot be tipped over and that they remain relatively clean.

When introducing chicks, the mother hen will typically bring them to the feed and water and teach them to eat and drink. However, it is recommended to provide chick starter feed and a chick waterer so that the chicks have access to appropriate nutrition and hydration.

If the hen is given eggs to incubate, it is normal for her to remain on the nest continuously for the first few days, so don't be concerned if she doesn't leave the nest during this period. After a few days, she will start taking short breaks to eat, drink, and stretch her legs. During these breaks, you should refill her food and water as needed and clean any waste from the brooding pen.

In summary, providing adequate food and water for a broody hen and her chicks involves offering chick starter feed and water in stable, clean containers placed near the nest. The mother hen will guide the chicks, but it's important to ensure they have access to the necessary resources, especially during the critical incubation period when the hen may remain on the nest continuously.

Frequently asked questions

A broody hen is a hen that wants to sit on eggs and hatch them. This instinctual behaviour ensures the survival of the species. To test if your hen is broody, you can try removing her from her nest and seeing if she returns within 20 to 30 minutes.

First, ensure that your hen is committed to being broody and has everything she needs to be a successful surrogate. Then, place the chicks under the hen at night when she is drowsy or asleep. Remove an egg or two and observe the interaction. If the hen nudges the chick under her and clucks softly, she has accepted the chick. If she seems aggravated, remove the chick and try again later.

It is best to add chicks to a broody hen when they are only a day or two old. Chicks that are born imprint on their mother and recognize her voice when they hatch. If the chicks are too old, the hen may notice the difference and reject them.

It is important to ensure that the broody hen is in good health and has sufficient fat reserves before adding chicks. Additionally, provide the hen with a safe and private space, such as a dog crate or nest box, to settle in with her chicks for the first few days.

Provide the hen and her chicks with chick starter feed and a chick-accessible waterer. Remove any layer feed that the chicks can reach as it contains too much calcium for young chicks. The extra protein in the starter feed will be beneficial for the hen.

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