Sophie Bennett
Building a chicken wire fence with metal posts is a quick, inexpensive, and straightforward task, even for beginners. First, you must plan and measure the area you wish to fence, marking the location of the fence posts and gate. Metal T-posts are a good option for posts as they can be easily driven into the ground with a post driver or sledgehammer, and they grip mesh well. When installing the posts, ensure they are straight, aligned, and firmly in place. Next, unroll the chicken wire mesh and secure it to the posts with staples or zip ties. Pull the mesh taut to prevent sagging and ensure stability. Finally, walk the perimeter to check for loose mesh, gaps, or sagging sections, and add reinforcements where necessary.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Planning | Measure the area and mark the location of the fence posts and gate. |
| Tools | Protective gloves, wire cutter, tape measure, spirit level, spade, string, pliers, hammer, post driver, staple gun, poultry staples, zip ties, cable ties, etc. |
| Materials | Chicken wire (PVC-coated or galvanized), fence posts (T-posts, U-posts, or wooden fence posts), fence post caps, gate, etc. |
| Fence Posts | Metal posts can be driven into the ground; wooden posts should be placed in holes with gravel at the bottom for drainage. |
| Chicken Wire | Ensure the wire is pulled taut and secured with staples or zip ties to the posts. |
| Maintenance | Periodically inspect for damage, rust, or weak spots. Reinforce high-stress areas and fill any ground gaps. |
What You'll Learn
Planning and marking the location of the fence posts
Start by determining the size of your fence and marking out the perimeter. Use spray paint or string to measure and clearly outline the shape and size of your fence. This initial step ensures that your fence will be installed in straight and even lines. It also helps you visualise where each post will be positioned.
Next, decide on the number of posts and their spacing. For metal T-posts, a recommended spacing is 6 feet (or 2 meters) apart, centre to centre. You can adjust the spacing according to your preferences and stability requirements. If you're dealing with a larger fence, you may want to reduce the distance between posts to increase stability.
Now, it's time to mark the specific locations of the posts within the outlined perimeter. Using string, such as mason's line, tie it from one end post to another, ensuring it's pulled tightly. This string will guide you in marking the exact spots for each post. You can also use batter boards to help lay out the fence perimeter, extending the lines beyond the corners so they intersect. Apply the Pythagorean theorem (3, 4, 5 method) to square off the corners accurately.
Once you've established the post locations with the string, you can fine-tune their positioning. Use a tape measure to ensure the posts are evenly spaced, and employ a spirit level to verify that they are straight, consistent in direction, and at the same height. This attention to detail ensures that your fence will be sturdy and aligned correctly.
Finally, before installing the posts, dig holes for them to sit securely. For metal T-posts, drive them directly into the ground with a post driver or sledgehammer. The depth should be such that only 4-6 inches of the top post remains above the ground. If you're using wooden posts, dig holes that are approximately one-third of the post's length.
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Installing metal fence posts
Metal fence posts are driven directly into the ground, with no digging required. Metal T-posts should be driven into the ground until only 4-6 inches of the top post remains above the ground. The ribbed design of the T-posts helps the mesh grip, reducing reliance on fasteners.
Before installing the metal fence posts, carefully plan and mark the location of the fence posts and gate. Use a string like a mason's line to represent either the outside or inside perimeter of the fence. Lay out the fence perimeter using batter boards and a mason's line, extending the lines several feet at each end so they cross at the corners. Square the corners using the Pythagorean theorem (3, 4, 5 method). Measure 3 feet from where the lines intersect and make a mark on the string line.
Drive the metal fence posts into the ground using a post driver or sledgehammer. Space the posts 6 feet apart for optimal support.
Once the metal fence posts are installed, you can begin installing the wire fencing mesh. Unroll the mesh and pull it taut, using a stretcher bar and "come-along" winch to help pull the fence mesh tight. Align the end of the mesh with the edge of the post, and align the top of the mesh so that it lands in the middle of the rail. Secure the mesh to the top rail using galvanized fence staples.
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Securing the wire to the posts
First, unroll the mesh along the fence line. Starting at one end post, clamp or staple the mesh at the top corner using a staple gun with poultry staples, or wrap zip ties tightly around T-posts. If you are using wooden posts, space your staples 15 cm apart. Ensure the mesh remains straight and taut throughout the process.
As you move to the next post, pull the mesh taut to prevent sagging between supports. You can use a stretcher bar and “come-along” winch to help with this. A helper can also assist with keeping the tension even.
Secure the mesh at 12–18 in. intervals vertically, working from top to bottom. For extra strength, install a horizontal wire or rail at midway height to tie into.
Finally, trim any excess wire using wire cutters.
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Adding a gate
You can then purchase a ready-to-hang fence gate or build one yourself. If you choose to build one, you can use wooden posts and leftover welded wire fence panels or chain-link fence. Ensure the gate is the correct height to match your fence. When installing, use supports to hold the gate posts straight and level while the concrete cures.
Attach the gate to the posts with hinges and a latch. Make sure the gate swings freely without rubbing the ground. You may need to adjust the hinge spacing or trim the bottom edge of the gate.
It is important to periodically inspect your fence for any damage, rust, or weak spots. Regularly check for ground gaps, especially after harsh weather conditions, and fill them promptly to maintain the security of your fence.
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Checking for stability
Post Installation
After installing each metal post, lightly wiggle it to confirm it's firmly in place and won't shift over time. Metal T-posts should be driven into the ground with a post driver or sledgehammer until only 4-6 inches of the top remains above the ground. Ensure the posts are straight and aligned by using a spirit level.
Mesh Tautness
When attaching the chicken wire mesh, it's crucial to pull it taut to maintain stability. A helper or a stretcher bar and "come-along" winch can assist in achieving even tension. Avoid overstretching the mesh, as this can weaken it and increase the risk of breakage.
Post Spacing
Proper post spacing is essential for stability. For T-posts, spacing them approximately 2 to 2.5 meters apart is recommended. However, for better stability, you may want to reduce the spacing between the posts. Ensure the posts are set deep enough into the ground to prevent shifting or loosening over time.
Routine Checks
Periodically inspect your fence for any signs of damage, such as breaks, rust, or weak spots. Look for sagging wire, loose mesh, and gaps at corners or beneath the fence. Use staples, ties, or a wrench to re-tighten sagging wire. Fill any ground gaps promptly to maintain security.
Trench Installation
Digging a trench around the perimeter of your fence adds stability and helps prevent predators from digging underneath. The trench should be at least 12 inches deep, and you should secure the bottom edge of the wire to the trench frame using framing nails or pegs.
By following these steps and conducting routine checks, you can ensure the stability and longevity of your chicken wire fence with metal posts.
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Frequently asked questions
First, you need to plan and measure the location of the fence posts and gate. Use spray paint or string to measure and mark the length of the area where you will attach the netting. Mark the post positions, spacing them about 2-2.5 meters apart. For increased stability, reduce the distance between your fence posts.
Metal T-posts can be driven directly into the soil with a post driver or sledgehammer. Drive the posts until only 4-6 inches of the top post remains above the ground.
Unroll the mesh and lay out your wire mesh or PVC-coated chicken wire along the fence line. Start at one end post, and staple the mesh at the top corner using a staple gun with poultry staples.
Pull the mesh taut and use a stretcher bar and "come-along" winch to keep even tension. Secure the mesh at 12-18 inch intervals vertically, working from top to bottom. You can also install a horizontal wire or rail at midway height to tie into.
Install a gate if your fence design includes one. You can purchase a ready-to-hang fence gate or build your own. Ensure the gate swings freely without rubbing the ground. Walk along the perimeter of the fence and look for loose mesh, gaps at corners, and sagging sections.
