Claire Thompson
Building an Amish chicken fence is a simple and cost-effective way to protect your chickens and keep out pesky critters. The first step is to measure your enclosure area and calculate the required amount of chicken wire and number of fence posts. Mark the perimeter of your fence, using spray paint or another marking tool to outline the shape and size. Next, drive wooden stakes or T-posts at each corner and any gate locations. You can then start installing your fence posts, ensuring they are driven at least 6-8 inches into the ground with a sledgehammer or post driver. To secure the wire, use a hammer and poultry staples to fasten the wire at the top, middle, and bottom of the posts. For extra protection against predators, dig a trench around the perimeter and reinforce it with framing nails. Finally, use an Amish fence puller to tighten the fence and ensure it is nice and taut.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fence type | Chicken wire |
| Fence purpose | Protecting chickens, gardens, or creating enclosures |
| Fence material | Wood, chicken wire, fencing nails, concrete |
| Fence tools | Hammer, heavy-duty stapler, fence puller, wrench |
| Fence posts | T-posts, U-posts, or wooden fence posts |
| Fence post spacing | Placed every 8 feet |
| Fence height | 4 feet to 7 feet |
| Fence maintenance | Routine checks for damage, tightening wire, ground gaps |
| Gate installation | Freely swinging, without rubbing the ground |
| Trench depth | 4-6 inches or 12 inches |
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What You'll Learn
Building a chicken wire fence
Firstly, you need to decide on the placement of your gate. Position the gate where it is easiest to access your vegetable garden or chicken coop, keeping in mind walkways and proximity to water sources.
Next, set up your fence posts. For wooden fence posts, use a post hole digger to create holes that are 1.5–2 feet deep (below the local frost line) and spaced 6–8 feet apart. Place 2–3 inches of gravel at the bottom of each hole for drainage, then backfill with native soil, tamping firmly every 6 inches to prevent water pooling and wood rot. For metal posts, drive them directly into the soil with a post driver or sledgehammer, spacing them at 6-foot centres for optimal support.
Now it's time to roll out and secure the chicken wire. Depending on the height of your posts, purchase chicken wire that coincides with these measurements. For example, if you have six-foot posts, use six-foot chicken wire. At one end post, clamp or staple the mesh at the top corner using a staple gun with poultry staples, or wrap zip ties tightly around T-posts. As you move to the next post, pull the mesh taut to prevent sagging between supports. Secure the mesh at 12–18-inch intervals vertically, working from top to bottom. For extra strength, install a horizontal wire or rail at midway height.
Finally, trim any excess wire with wire cutters and consider adding a trench to protect your chickens from predators. Dig a shallow trench (4–6 inches deep) and tuck the bottom edge of the mesh into it before adding backfill. Alternatively, bend the lower 6–8 inches of wire outward at a right angle to form an L-shape that discourages burrowing.
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Using an Amish fence puller
Building an Amish chicken fence can be a lot of work, and many people avoid it. Wire fences, such as chicken wire, are often avoided because they are difficult to pull taut. However, the Amish fence puller is a straightforward and simple tool that can be used to address this problem.
The Amish fence puller is made from two pieces of 2x4 or 2x3 wood, cut to the height of your fencing. Stack your two boards together and use clamps to hold them in place. Drill a hole in the centre, and then two more on each side, all 11 1/2 inches apart. Insert the carriage bolts through both boards and attach the washers and nuts. To use the fence puller, undo the nuts and washers, and lift off one of the boards. Insert the carriage bolts through the openings of the fence at the other end of the section that needs to be pulled tight. Place the second board, washers and nuts back in place, and tighten the nuts. Wrap a ratchet strap around the centre of the puller and attach it to something strong, such as another fence post or the bumper of your truck. Ratchet the strap until the fencing is tight. Then, attach the fencing to the posts while the puller holds it in place. When you are finished with that section, simply unscrew the nuts, open up the puller and move it to the next location.
The Amish fence puller is a simple tool that makes installing fencing much easier. It is especially useful for wire fences, which can be challenging to pull taut without the right equipment. With the Amish fence puller, you can quickly and easily achieve nice, tight fencing without wrestling with rolls of fencing.
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Securing the fence with staples
To secure the wire, start at one post and unroll the chicken wire along the perimeter. Align the bottom edge of the wire to fit snugly in the trench. Use staples to fasten the wire to the posts at the top, middle, and bottom. You can also use zip ties to temporarily attach the wire mesh to the posts before stapling. Make sure to staple the wire mesh three times along each post section.
It is important to routinely check for loose mesh, gaps at corners, and sagging sections. In high-stress areas near feeders or roosts, tack on a length of hog wire or welded wire fence for extra durability. Periodically inspect for rusted staples or corroded wire and replace any worn fasteners promptly to prevent breaches.
To prevent predators from digging under the fence, you can dig a trench around the perimeter. The trench should be at least 12 inches deep. Place framing lumber in the trench and cut wood sections to fit your perimeter as needed. Reinforce the trench with framing nails to create a secure base.
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Preventing predators from digging under
To prevent predators from digging under your Amish chicken fence, you can try a few different methods. One common method is to use an L-shaped footer or barrier. This involves burying wire mesh or fencing about a foot deep and extending it out horizontally at a 90-degree angle for at least a foot. This creates a barrier that animals cannot dig under. The size of the wire mesh can vary depending on the size of the animals you want to keep out. For example, 2x3-inch fencing will exclude groundhogs, raccoons, and opossums, but not small rodents. If you want to exclude smaller animals, you may need to use 1x1-inch galvanized wire.
Another option is to use wood as a skirting material. You can lay boards flat on the ground, extending about 15 inches from the run. However, wood may rot over time and attract termites, so it is important to strongly pin the boards down with heavy objects like cinder blocks. You can also use wire, large pavers, large rocks, or concrete rubble as an alternative to wood.
Additionally, you can try using an underground electric radio fence with shock collars to deter animals from digging under the fence. This method has been effective for some dog owners. Another natural deterrent is to spread cayenne pepper or hot sauce along the fence line, as the capsaicin will irritate animals' noses and remove their incentive to dig.
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Inspecting and maintaining the fence
Inspecting and maintaining your chicken fence is key to ensuring your chickens are kept safe and secure. Here are some detailed steps to guide you through the process:
Inspecting the Fence:
- Walk the perimeter—Regularly walk around the entire fence, carefully examining it for any signs of damage or weakness. Look for loose mesh, gaps at corners, sagging sections, or weak spots in the wire. Pay close attention to areas near feeders or roosts, as these are high-stress areas prone to more wear and tear.
- Check for rust and corrosion—Seasonally, or at least twice a year, conduct a thorough inspection for any signs of rusted staples or corroded wire. Check the fasteners and hinges, especially if you have a gate, and replace any worn or damaged parts immediately.
- Evaluate the height—Ensure that the fence is still at at least 6 feet high. Foxes and other predators can jump impressive heights, so if you notice any reduction in height, take immediate steps to raise the fence.
- Examine the base—Check the base of the fence for any signs of disturbance or digging. If you have used the burying method to secure the bottom of the fence, look for any signs of wire exposure.
Maintaining the Fence:
- Routine repairs—As soon as you notice any issues during your inspections, address them promptly. Repair or replace loose or sagging mesh, and reinforce weak spots with additional poultry staples, zip ties, or hog wire.
- Tighten the wire—If you notice any loose or sagging wire, use a fence puller to tighten it. A fence puller is a simple tool that you can easily make yourself by following online instructions. It will help you achieve a nice, tight fence without much hassle.
- Secure the base—If you haven't already, consider adding extra security to the base of your fence. You can bury wire mesh or create an L-shape barrier by bending the lower part of the wire outward. Alternatively, use boards to secure the base and keep predators from digging their way in.
- Consider electric fencing—If you're open to more advanced solutions, electric fencing is an effective way to secure your chicken run. It requires regular maintenance, but it can provide excellent protection against predators.
- Plant strategically—If you want to enhance the security of your chicken fence, consider growing climbing plants along the outside. Grape vines or other climbing plants can add an extra layer of protection and make it more difficult for predators to access the fence. Just remember to tie the plants to the wire rather than threading them through.
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Frequently asked questions
The Amish fence puller is a tool used to stretch wire fencing tightly without sagging. It is made from two pieces of 2"x 4" wood, cut to the height of your fencing, and joined with bolts, washers and nuts.
First, attach the end of the fencing to a post to act as an anchor. Then, undo the nuts and washers, lift off one of the boards and insert the bolts through the openings of the fence at the other end. Place the second board, washers and nuts back in place, then tighten the nuts. Wrap a ratchet strap around the centre of the puller and attach it to something sturdy. Ratchet the strap until the fencing is tight, then attach it to the posts.
You will need fence posts (T-posts, U-posts or wooden fence posts), chicken wire, a heavy-duty stapler or hammer, poultry staples or zip ties, and a fence puller.
First, plan your perimeter and mark it with spray paint or another marking tool. Drive your fence posts at least six to eight inches into the ground using a sledgehammer or post driver. To prevent predators from digging under the fence, dig a trench around the perimeter and reinforce it with framing nails. Roll out the chicken wire and secure it to the posts with staples or zip ties.
