Quick Temporary Fencing: Chicken Wire Wonder

how to build a temporary fence with chicken wire

Building a temporary fence with chicken wire is a simple DIY project that can improve the curb appeal of your garden. Chicken wire fences are affordable, easy to assemble, and perfect for gardens or as a trellis. They are also see-through, so they do not obstruct the view and can highlight your existing landscaping. To build a temporary fence with chicken wire, you will need tools such as protective gloves, wire cutters, tape measures, and hammers, as well as materials like chicken wire, staples, and fence posts. Mark the area for your fence with spray paint or string, then install your chosen fence posts by driving them into the ground with a post driver or mallet. Finally, attach the chicken wire to the posts with staples or cable ties, ensuring the mesh is taut without being overstretched.

Characteristics Values
Purpose Protecting a garden, keeping chickens safe, or creating a simple enclosure
Tools Required Protective gloves, wire cutter, tape measure, spirit level, spade, string, pliers, hammer, post driver, staple gun, heavy-duty stapler
Materials Required Chicken wire (PVC-coated or uncoated galvanised steel), staples, cable ties, fence posts (wooden or metal T-posts), tensioning wire, pegs, concrete, weather-resistant stain or paint, framing lumber
Planning Measure and mark the area, ensuring straight and even lines; determine the number of posts and their spacing (approximately 2-2.5 meters apart) for stability; select the appropriate hole size and height of chicken wire based on needs
Installation Drive posts into the ground using a post driver or mallet, ensuring depth and alignment; treat wooden posts with concrete and/or weather-resistant coating; unroll and secure the chicken wire to the posts, pulling it taut without overstretching to maintain stability; use staples or cable ties for attachment
Maintenance Regular maintenance can extend the life of the fence; trim any excess wire; for predator protection, dig a trench around the perimeter and bury the bottom edge of the wire

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Planning and marking your fence line

First, decide on the location of your fence and measure the perimeter. Use spray paint or string to mark out the area and clearly outline the shape and size. This will help you visualise the fence line and ensure straight and even lines. When measuring, walk the length of the fence, checking distances and right angles with a carpenter's square or a simple 3-4-5 triangle.

Next, determine the placement of your fence posts. Mark the locations for your posts, spacing them approximately 2 to 2.5 meters apart. For increased stability, you can reduce the distance between posts. Don't forget to consider the height of your posts, which will determine the height of your chicken wire.

Once you have marked the post positions, it's time to install the posts. Drive wooden stakes or T-posts into the ground at each corner and at any gate locations. For T-posts, drive them into the ground until only 4-6 inches remain above the ground. For wooden posts, you can pour concrete into the hole (optional) and brace with temporary stakes for 24-48 hours while it cures.

Now that your posts are installed, you can attach the chicken wire. Unroll the wire mesh along the fence line, starting at one end post. Use staples or a staple gun to secure the mesh to the posts, placing them 15 cm apart to ensure a firm hold. Pull the mesh taut as you work to maintain stability, but be careful not to overstretch the wire, as this can weaken it.

By following these steps for planning and marking your fence line, you will be well on your way to building a sturdy and functional chicken wire fence.

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Installing fence posts

Before installing your fence posts, you should measure the enclosure area to calculate the number of posts and amount of chicken wire required. Fences should provide at least four square feet of space per chicken. Mark the perimeter of your fence with spray paint or string to ensure straight and even lines.

For T-posts, drive them into the ground until only 4-6 inches remain above the surface. For wooden posts, dig a hole approximately one-third of the post's length and pour in concrete (if desired). Brace with temporary stakes for 24-48 hours while it cures. Ensure the posts are straight and at the same height using a spirit level.

Space your posts approximately 2-2.5 meters apart. For better stability, reduce the distance between posts. Posts should be driven at least six to eight inches into the ground to withstand wind and external forces.

To prevent predators from digging under the fence, dig a trench around the perimeter of your fence. The trench should be at least 12 inches deep. Place framing lumber in the trench and cut wood sections to fit your perimeter. Reinforce the trench with framing nails.

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Attaching chicken wire to fence posts

If you are working with wooden posts, you can use staples or cable ties. Before attaching the wire, treat the posts with a weather-resistant stain or paint. To attach the wire, use a staple gun with poultry staples or a heavy-duty stapler and hammer to secure the wire to the posts. Space the staples 15 cm apart, and staple three times along each post section, as well as along the top and bottom wooden frames. You can also use zip ties to temporarily attach the wire mesh to the posts before stapling. Pull the mesh taut to maintain stability, but avoid overstretching, as this can weaken the mesh and increase the risk of breaking under pressure.

If you are working with metal T-posts, you can use zip ties to tightly wrap and secure the wire to the posts. The ribbed design of the posts helps the mesh grip and reduces the need for fasteners.

Regardless of the type of post you are using, it is important to ensure that the chicken wire is pulled taut to create a strong fence. It is also important to consider the height of the posts and purchase chicken wire that coincides with these measurements. For example, if you have six-foot-tall posts, you should use six-foot-tall chicken wire.

Additionally, to prevent animals from digging underneath the fence, you can dig a trench along the fence line and bury the bottom edge of the chicken wire a few centimeters underground. The trench should be at least 12 inches deep, and you can place framing lumber in the trench for added reinforcement.

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Burying the wire to deter animals

Burying wire mesh a few centimetres underground can prevent animals from digging underneath the fence. The depth of the trench should be at least 12 inches, and the wire should be secured with pegs or by placing framing lumber in the trench.

Chicken wire can be used to deter a variety of animals, including moles, rabbits, dogs, gophers, cats, raccoons, possums, rats, foxes, skunks, and birds of prey. However, chicken wire may not be strong enough to keep out larger and stronger animals, such as bears, and some predators may be able to reach through or tear through the wire.

To enhance the security of the fence, you can cover the chicken wire with hardware cloth, which is more secure but also more expensive. Burying the hardware cloth a few inches underground can also help deter digging animals.

Additionally, electric poultry fencing can be used to deter smaller animals, and motion-activated lights can be installed to scare away predators.

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Trimming excess wire

Once your chicken wire fence is securely attached to the posts and stretched to your satisfaction, it's time to trim any excess wire. This step will give your fence a neat and finished look and prevent sharp wire ends from posing a hazard. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to trim the excess chicken wire:

Using wire cutters or heavy-duty snips, cut the chicken wire close to the final fence post, ensuring that the cut is straight and even. Be cautious and careful while cutting to avoid any accidental snips to the fence posts or nearby structures. Leave about 2-3 inches of excess wire beyond the post, as this will be used to secure the wire and prevent it from unraveling.

Now, carefully fold the cut end of the wire back on itself, creating a small, tight cuff. This cuff will prevent the wire from fraying and ensure that the cut edge is not sharp or hazardous. Use your pliers to tightly twist and secure this cuff, forming a neat and safe finish.

If your fence has a gate, pay close attention to the wire trimming around the gate area. Ensure that the wire is cut and secured neatly to allow the gate to open and close without any obstruction or snagging. Again, use the cuff method to secure the wire ends, creating a safe and tidy finish.

For added safety and to prevent injuries, you can also choose to cover the cut edges of the chicken wire with plastic tubing or vinyl edging. This is especially useful if your fence is in an area with children or pets who may come into contact with the wire. Simply slide the tubing or edging over the sharp edges for a quick and easy solution.

By carefully trimming and securing the excess chicken wire, you will achieve a professional-looking temporary fence that is both functional and safe for its intended purpose. This step is a key part of building a chicken wire fence and will ensure your fence stands strong and secure.

Frequently asked questions

You will need protective gloves, wire cutters, a tape measure, a spirit level, a spade, string, pliers, a hammer, a post driver, chicken wire, staples, wooden or T posts, tensioning wire, and pegs.

Mark the locations for the posts, spacing them 2-2.5 metres apart. Dig a hole for each post, ensuring the depth is approximately one-third of the post's length. Drive the posts into the ground using a post driver or mallet, and use a spirit level to ensure they are straight and at the same height.

You can use cable ties to temporarily attach the chicken wire to the posts. Pull the mesh taut to maintain stability, but avoid overstretching as this can weaken the mesh. Then, use a heavy-duty stapler or a hammer to secure the mesh with staples, placing them 15 cm apart.

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