Setting Up A Chicken Wire Fence: Green Posts Guide

how to install chicken wire fence with green posts

Chicken wire fencing is a versatile, cost-effective, and lightweight option for enclosing chicken coops, protecting gardens, and keeping small animals contained. This guide will walk you through the process of installing a chicken wire fence with green posts, covering everything from planning and measuring to attaching the wire and maintaining your fence.

Characteristics Values
Fence type Chicken wire
Fence post type Wooden or metal posts (green U-posts)
Fence post spacing 2-2.5 metres apart
Fence post depth One-third of the post's length
Fence height 3 feet
Wire attachment method Staples, zip ties, cable ties, tie wire
Wire spacing 15 cm intervals
Wire tension Taut, but not overstretched
Gate installation Ready-to-hang fence gate or custom-built gate
Maintenance Regular inspections for damage, rust, or corrosion

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Planning and measuring the area

Identify the Installation Area

Begin by assessing the layout of your garden and clearly identifying where you intend to install the chicken wire fence. Consider the boundaries and specific areas that require protection. For example, if you're protecting a vegetable garden or chicken coop, think about walkways and proximity to water sources when planning the fence's location.

Measure the Area

Use a measuring tape or ruler to accurately measure the length of each side where the fence will be installed. Take into account any angles or corners in your garden, as these may require additional fence sections or adjustments to the layout. Measure twice to ensure precision and to account for any right angles with a carpenter's square or a simple 3-4-5 triangle.

Determine Fence Height

Decide on the appropriate height for your fence based on its purpose. If you aim to keep out animals, research the typical sizes of the specific animals you want to deter and set the height accordingly. If the fence is for general boundary definition, you can choose a height that suits your aesthetic preferences.

Mark the Area

Use spray paint or string to mark the length of the area where you'll attach the netting. This will help you visualise the fence's path and make any necessary adjustments.

Post Placement

Mark the locations for your posts, spacing them about 2-2.5 meters apart. For increased stability, you can reduce the distance between posts. If you're using T-posts, you can drive them into the ground with a post driver or mallet. For wooden posts, dig holes that are approximately one-third of the post's length and place the posts inside. Ensure the posts are level, straight, and at the same height using a spirit level.

Gate Placement

If your fence design includes a gate, carefully consider its placement. Position the gate where it's most accessible and functional while also ensuring it swings freely without rubbing the ground. You may need to adjust the hinge spacing or trim the bottom edge of the gate for a smooth opening.

By carefully planning and measuring your fence area, you can ensure a seamless installation process and a chicken wire fence that serves its purpose effectively.

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Installing the posts

To install posts for a chicken wire fence, start by measuring and marking the area where you want to attach the netting. Use spray paint or string to mark the length of the area, and then mark the locations for the posts, spacing them about 2 to 2.5 meters apart. For better stability, you can reduce the distance between the posts.

Next, dig holes for your posts, ensuring that the depth is approximately one-third of the post's length. Use a post hole digger, shovel, or post driver to dig the holes. Place the posts in the holes, checking that they are straight and aligned consistently in the same direction at the same height. Use a spirit level to confirm that the posts are straight and a tape measure to ensure they are the same height. For added stability and security, you can add concrete or gravel around the base of the posts.

Once the posts are in place, you can attach the chicken wire. If you are using wooden posts, staple the wire to the posts at 15 cm intervals. It is important to pull the mesh taut to maintain stability, but avoid overstretching as this can weaken the wire. If you are using metal posts, you can use tie wire or cable ties to attach the mesh at 15 cm intervals. Do not overtighten the cable ties, and cut off any excess plastic after they are in place.

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Attaching the chicken wire

If you are using wooden posts, you can attach the chicken wire with staples. Space the staples 12-18 inches apart vertically, working from top to bottom. Ensure they are not attached too tightly, as the fence needs to be able to move with impact and temperature changes. For greater durability, you can also install a horizontal wire or rail at midway height to tie into.

If you are using metal posts, you can use tie wire or cable ties. Cable ties should be attached at 15cm intervals, and you should ensure they are not overtightened.

If you are using T-posts, you can clamp or staple the mesh at the top corner, or wrap zip ties tightly around the posts.

When attaching the chicken wire, it is important to pull the mesh taut to prevent sagging between supports. However, be careful not to overstretch the mesh, as this can weaken it and increase the risk of breaking under pressure.

Finally, if you are using the fence to keep out burrowing animals, you should dig a trench and bury the wire a few centimetres deep.

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Adding a gate

If you are installing a gate, it is best to do so at this stage, before you attach the chicken wire to the posts. You can buy a ready-to-hang gate from a hardware store, or you could make one yourself from wooden posts and leftover welded wire fence panels or chain link. If you are making a gate, you will need to ensure it swings freely and does not rub on the ground. You may need to adjust the hinges or trim the bottom edge of the gate.

There are a few ways to attach a gate to your green posts. One option is to use a male strap hinge, although you may need to adjust the size of the hinge to fit your post. Another option is to use rebar to hold the gate to the post, and when the clamps are positioned correctly, they will support the gate off the ground. You could also use baling wire to tie the gate to the post.

Another method for attaching the gate to the post is to use galvanized wire. Loop the wire through the chicken wire mesh and then around the post, with at least two loops and a final twist. With a green U-post, you can try to catch a loop of chicken wire mesh on the "elbow" pieces at the holes in the post.

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Maintenance and reinforcement

Regular maintenance and reinforcement are crucial to ensure the longevity and stability of your chicken wire fence. Here are some detailed instructions to help you maintain and reinforce your chicken wire fence with green posts:

Routine Inspections and Maintenance:

  • Regularly inspect your fence for any signs of wear, damage, or rusted wire. Pay close attention to the wire and posts, looking for breaks, rust, or weak spots.
  • Keep the fence clean by periodically removing any debris, weeds, or vegetation that may accumulate at the base. This is important because debris can weaken the structure over time and affect the overall stability.
  • If you notice any loose sections or sagging wire, use staples, ties, or a wrench to re-tighten and secure the wire.
  • Apply a protective coating to the wire to prevent rust and extend its life.

Reinforcing Weak Spots:

  • If you identify any weak areas or spots that are prone to sagging, reinforce them immediately.
  • One common method is to add an extra layer of fencing material, such as wooden pickets or stronger wire fencing (such as hog wire or welded wire fence), alongside or on top of the chicken wire.
  • For added stability, you can also reduce the distance between your fence posts.

Bottom Barrier and Trench:

  • To prevent animals from digging underneath, create a bottom barrier by burying the bottom edge of the chicken wire at least 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) underground.
  • Alternatively, dig a trench along the fence line and place the bottom edge of the chicken wire into the trench. Secure it with pegs and then backfill the trench with soil.

Top Reinforcement:

Add a horizontal wooden or metal strip at the top of the fence for added rigidity and strength.

By following these maintenance and reinforcement steps, you can ensure that your chicken wire fence remains sturdy, secure, and effective in protecting your garden or enclosure.

Frequently asked questions

You will need protective gloves, wire cutters, a tape measure, a spirit level, a spade, string, pliers, a hammer, a post driver or mallet, chicken wire or chicken wire PVC, staples (for wood) or cable ties (for metal), wooden or T posts, tensioning wire, radisseur, and pegs (optional).

Begin by assessing the layout of your garden and identify where you want to install the fence. Take into account the boundaries and specific areas that require protection. Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure the length of each side where the fence will be installed. Measure twice to ensure accuracy. Take into account any angles or corners that may require additional fence sections or adjustments. Determine the height of your fence based on your needs, considering whether it is meant to keep out animals or define boundaries.

Mark the locations for the posts, spacing them about 2-2.5 meters apart. For better stability, reduce the spacing between the posts. Dig holes for the posts, ensuring the depth is approximately one-third of the post's length. Use a post driver or mallet to drive the end posts into the ground. Use a spirit level to ensure the posts are straight and at the same height.

For wooden posts, staple the chicken wire loosely at 15 cm intervals. The fence should be able to move slightly. For metal posts, use cable ties at 15 cm intervals, ensuring you don't overtighten them. Pull the mesh taut to maintain stability, but avoid overstretching it as this can weaken it. Secure the mesh to the remaining posts with staples or cable ties.

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