Sophie Bennett
Raising chicks is a rewarding but challenging endeavour. Before you begin, it's important to research local laws and calculate the costs of keeping chickens. You'll need to provide a safe, weatherproof coop or shelter with ample space for your chickens to roam and access to food and water. Chicks require a heat source, such as a heat lamp, and room-temperature water to prevent chilling, along with bedding made from pine shavings, straw, or hay. It's crucial to monitor their feed, providing starter feed for the first six weeks, followed by grower feed until week 18, and then layer feed. You can purchase chicks online, from local farmers, or through mail-order companies, but always ensure they appear healthy and active.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of chicks | A minimum of six chicks per order |
| Chicken coop | Should be weatherproof and big enough for all chickens |
| Chicken feed | High-protein feed for young chicks; grower feed for 6-18 weeks old; layer feed for 18 weeks and up; broiler feed for meat chickens |
| Chicken grit | Not necessary as chick starter and grower feeds are formulated for digestion |
| Chicken water | Always clean and at room temperature; use shallow water dispensers to prevent drowning |
| Chicken space | 0.5 square foot per chick at the beginning; 2.5 to 3 square feet per bird once mature; up to 10 square feet of outside space |
| Chicken bedding | Pine shavings, straw, rice hulls, or hay; avoid small shavings, sawdust, sand, or cedar shavings |
| Chicken heat | Heat lamp with a red bulb or a heat plate; maintain temperature at around 95 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week |
| Chicken purchase | Buy locally in spring or order online; purchase from local farmers or feed stores |
| Chicken laws | Research local state laws and regulations for chicken keeping |
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What You'll Learn
- Preparing the barn: Ensure the barn is weatherproof, has enough space, and is safe from predators
- Buying chicks: Research local laws, costs, and sources
- Feeding: Provide chick starter feed, grit, and water
- Brooding: Use a heat lamp, thermometer, and bedding
- Integrating with other chickens: Slowly introduce chicks to older chickens to minimise conflict
Preparing the barn: Ensure the barn is weatherproof, has enough space, and is safe from predators
Preparing the barn for raising chicks with other chickens involves several steps to ensure the barn is weatherproof, spacious, and safe from predators.
Firstly, when it comes to weatherproofing, it is important to consider insulation. While chickens can withstand moderate temperatures and survive relatively cold winters due to their feathers, providing a comfortable environment is crucial. Aim for a temperature of around 55°F, and ensure that the barn offers protection from harsh weather conditions like rain, wind, and snow. You can achieve this by inspecting the barn for any gaps or openings that might allow water or air leaks, and then sealing them appropriately.
Secondly, space is essential for the well-being of the chickens and chicks. Each chick requires approximately 0.5 square feet of space initially, and as they mature, this requirement increases to 2.5 to 3 square feet per bird if they are confined. If they have outside space, they will need up to 10 square feet or more for ranging. Ensure that the barn provides ample room for the chickens to move around, access food and water, and rest comfortably.
Lastly, protecting the chickens and chicks from predators is of utmost importance. Here are some measures to consider:
- Constructing a secure coop within the barn: Use sturdy materials like plywood, boards, or metal panels for the top and sides. Cover all six sides, including the top, bottom, and four sides, to prevent predators from digging under or breaking in.
- Burying hardware cloth: Dig a trench around the perimeter of the coop and bury hardware cloth at least 12 inches deep to deter digging predators. Alternatively, extend a hardware cloth apron from the perimeter if digging is not an option.
- Securing the coop doors: Install secure latches on all doors to prevent predators from breaking in. Raccoons, for example, can be clever, so consider latches with carabiners or padlocks, or spring-loaded eye hooks.
- Installing predator deterrent systems: Opt for systems with motion sensors, blinking red lights, motion-activated lights, and alarms to startle predators and alert you to their presence.
- Electric poultry netting or fencing: Use electric fencing, baited with bacon or similar, to deter predators like bears.
- Clearing the surroundings: Remove rocks, sticks, and cut back shrubbery and overhanging branches near the barn, as these can provide hiding spots for predators.
- Training the chickens: Teach the chickens to return to the coop at night, as they are most vulnerable when asleep.
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Buying chicks: Research local laws, costs, and sources
Before buying chicks, it is important to research and understand local laws, costs, and sources.
Local Laws
Chicken-keeping laws vary by location, so it is important to check the regulations in your city, town, or municipality. Some cities may have restrictions on animal ownership, particularly in residential areas, while rural areas tend to have more relaxed rules. In the US, these laws are governed by individual cities rather than states, although neighbouring cities tend to have similar laws. Some cities, such as Ankeny, Waukee, and Altoona, do not allow residents to keep chickens at all. Other cities may require permits, which can cost anywhere from $20 to $600 per year. Additionally, some locations may have limits on the number of chickens allowed per household and may prohibit roosters. It is also important to consider any homeowners' association (HOA) rules or neighbourhood regulations that may apply.
Costs
When purchasing chicks, you have the option of buying "straight-run" or "sexed" chicks. Straight-run chicks are a cost-effective option if you do not need to know the sex of the chicken. However, if you have specific farming needs or cannot accommodate a rooster, buying sexed chicks is recommended. Sexed chicks are identified as either pullets (young female chicks) or cockerels (young male chicks). Knowing the sex of the chicks ahead of time allows you to grow a flock that meets your specific needs.
Sources
You can purchase chicks locally in the spring from farm supply stores or small farms. These stores typically have a minimum order requirement of six chicks. You can also order chicks online and have them shipped to your door or local post office. Additionally, you can ask a friend with chickens to hatch some for you or obtain day-old chicks from hatcheries.
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Feeding: Provide chick starter feed, grit, and water
When it comes to feeding your chicks, there are a few key things to keep in mind. Firstly, it is important to provide them with chick starter feed, which is a high-protein feed that helps young chicks grow and develop properly. This feed is typically formulated with the necessary grit to support proper digestion, so you don't need to add extra grit unless your chicks are living inside and are unable to pick up natural grit like sand, pebbles, and stones from the outdoors. In that case, you can purchase chick grit from a feed store or get canary gravel from the supermarket pet aisle.
You should also ensure that your chicks always have access to clean, room-temperature water. It is recommended to have one gallon-size waterer for every hundred chicks, and to use a chick waterer designed to prevent drowning and keep the water clean. When your chicks first arrive, dip their beaks in the water to show them where it is, as they can easily die from dehydration if they don't know where to find it.
As your chicks grow, their feed requirements will change. After the initial starter feed, you can transition to grower feed, which is lower in protein and supports steady growth from 6 to 18 weeks of age. From 18 weeks onwards, you can switch to layer feed, which contains essential nutrients for egg production, including calcium for strong eggshells. If you are raising chickens for meat, there is also specific broiler feed that provides balanced nutrition for rapid growth.
In addition to the formulated feeds, you can occasionally offer treats such as whole grains like corn, barley, oats, and wheat. These can be scattered on the ground as a supplement or energy boost, especially during colder weather.
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Brooding: Use a heat lamp, thermometer, and bedding
Brooding is the process of raising chicks in a heated enclosure, which is essential to their survival and growth. Here are some tips for brooding chicks using a heat lamp, thermometer, and bedding:
Heat Lamp
Heat lamps are a common and inexpensive heat source for brooding chicks. When using a heat lamp, it is important to hang it securely to avoid fire hazards and potential injury to the chicks. The lamp should be hung at a height that allows the chicks to move closer for warmth or move away if they get too hot. As a general rule, the bottom of the bulb should be 24 to 30 inches above the bedding, but the height may need to be adjusted based on the temperature requirements of the chicks. It is recommended to use a red heat lamp bulb, as clear or white bulbs can be too bright and disrupt the chicks' sleep.
Thermometer
A thermometer is an essential tool for monitoring the temperature in the brooding area. The ideal temperature for the first week is around 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit, which should then be decreased by about 5 degrees each week until the chicks are four weeks old. Adjust the height of the heat lamp or its distance from the bedding to regulate the temperature.
Bedding
Bedding provides a comfortable surface for the chicks to walk and rest on. Pine shavings are commonly used for bedding, but make sure to use large shavings to prevent the chicks from eating them. Other suitable bedding materials include rice hulls, straw, or hay. Spread a layer of bedding on the floor of the brooding area, ensuring it is at least 6 to 12 inches away from the heat source to minimise fire risks. Avoid using sand, cedar shavings, or seed starting mats as bedding, as they can be unsafe for the chicks.
By providing a heat lamp, maintaining the appropriate temperature with a thermometer, and using suitable bedding, you can create a safe and comfortable environment for your chicks to thrive during their early stages of development.
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Integrating with other chickens: Slowly introduce chicks to older chickens to minimise conflict
When integrating chicks with older chickens, it is important to do so slowly to minimise conflict and stress. Before introducing young chicks to the rest of the flock, it is important to ensure they are healthy and active. Avoid chicks that look lethargic, hunched over, reluctant to move, or have eye or nose discharge.
Once you have determined that your chicks are healthy, you can begin the slow process of introducing them to the older chickens. Start by keeping the chicks in a separate brooder, which is a heated enclosure for young chicks, within the same space as the older chickens. This will allow the two groups to gradually become accustomed to each other's presence. Ensure that the brooder is large enough for the chicks to move away from the heat source if they become too warm. A heat lamp with a red bulb is ideal, as it provides warmth and does not show injury.
Provide the chicks with plenty of space to roam and access to food and water at all times. It is important to use shallow water dispensers to prevent drowning and keep the water clean. Dip the beaks of the chicks in the water when you first introduce them to the brooder to prevent dehydration.
As the chicks grow, gradually reduce the heat from the lamp and adjust its height accordingly. Eventually, the chicks will no longer need supplemental heat and can be fully integrated with the older chickens. Monitor the interactions between the two groups and separate them if necessary to minimise conflict and ensure the safety of the younger chicks.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a brooder, which is a secure, enclosed space to keep the chicks warm, such as a large cardboard box, a plastic tote, or a pop-up brooder. You will also need a heat lamp or heat plate, a thermometer, bedding, a feeder, and a waterer.
For the first 4 1/2 to 6 weeks, chicks should be fed a high-protein starter feed to help them grow and develop properly. From 6 to 18 weeks, they can transition to grower feed, which is lower in protein. After 18 weeks, they can be fed layer feed, which contains essential nutrients for egg production.
It is best to begin the process of raising chicks in the spring or early summer. Slowly introduce the new chicks to the coop with the older chickens to minimize stress and conflict. Pay attention to the young chicks to see how they are adjusting and whether they need supplemental heat or help finding their way into the coop.
