Lucas Delgado
Hatching chicks is a delicate process that requires careful control of temperature, humidity, and egg turning. The process typically takes 21 days, but it can vary depending on various factors. One of the critical aspects is ensuring proper ventilation as the embryos grow bigger, especially from days 18 to 21. If a chick has not hatched by day 21, it is advisable to give it a few more days and avoid intervening unless absolutely necessary. Assisted hatching may be required in certain situations, such as when the chick has pipped the wrong end or is struggling to break free from the shell. However, it is crucial to be cautious during this process to avoid causing harm to the chick.
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What You'll Learn
Assisted hatching: when to step in
Assisted hatching is a delicate process that requires careful attention and patience. While it is generally recommended to let nature take its course, there are instances when intervention becomes necessary to ensure the successful hatching of chicks. Here are some guidelines on when to step in and provide assistance:
Identifying Hatching Difficulties
Before deciding to intervene, it is essential to recognise signs that a chick may be struggling to hatch on its own. Observe the following indicators:
- Timing: If a chick has pipped but hasn't started unzipping after 18-24 hours, or if it has been more than 40 hours since pipping, the chick may need assistance.
- Pipping Errors: A chick that has pipped the wrong end of the egg, or with erratic or irregular pipping marks, may be in trouble and require help.
- Membrane Drying: If the exposed membrane around the pipping hole starts to turn tan and dry, the chick might need help.
- Weak or Exhausted Chicks: Late hatchers or weak chicks that are struggling to break free from their shells might need assistance.
Preparing for Assisted Hatching
When you decide to assist, gather the necessary tools and create a suitable environment:
- Tools: Have tweezers, a candle, and a sharp, pointed object like a nail ready.
- Humidity and Temperature: Maintain appropriate humidity and temperature levels to prevent shrink-wrapping and ensure proper embryo development.
- Incubator: Prepare an incubator to keep the chick warm and comfortable during and after the assisted hatching process.
The Assisted Hatching Process
Once you've identified the need for assistance and prepared the necessary tools, follow these steps:
- Candle the Egg: Use a candle to locate the air sac or air cell at the top of the egg.
- Create a Small Hole: With a nail or sharp object, carefully peck a tiny hole in the big end of the egg, just enough to check for movement. Stop if you draw blood.
- Locate the Chick's Head: Look and feel through the membrane for the chick's eye, beak, or wing to find its head.
- Expand the Hole: Using tweezers, carefully make a slightly larger hole in the membrane, avoiding blood vessels.
- Assist the Chick: Gently lift or pull the chick's head from under its wing, and then extend it carefully. This may be enough for the chick to complete hatching on its own.
- Monitor Absorption: Keep the shell open over the air cell to monitor the absorption of the yolk and other fluids.
- Final Steps: Once everything is absorbed, you may need to finish hatching the chick manually. Open the egg and carefully remove the chick.
Post-Hatching Care
After a successful assisted hatch, provide proper care for the chick:
- Rest and Recovery: Place the chick in an incubator to rest until the blood vessels recede.
- Hydration: Ensure the chick has access to water and provide a drop of water with a syringe if necessary.
- Navigation: Place one or two late hatchers in the incubator to help guide weak chicks.
- Culling: If a chick hatches with issues, be prepared to humanely cull it to prevent unnecessary suffering.
Assisted hatching can be a challenging and emotional process. It is important to make informed decisions and act in the best interest of the chick's health and well-being. Always be gentle, patient, and observant throughout the process.
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Assisted hatching: how to pierce the shell
Assisted hatching is a delicate process that should be approached with caution. It is generally recommended that you do not help a chick hatch from its egg, as human intervention can cause more harm than good. However, if you notice that a chick is struggling to hatch, there are some steps you can take to assist it.
Firstly, it is important to identify the signs that a chick may need assistance. This could include a malpositioned chick, a stuck membrane, or a weak chick. A malpositioned chick may have pipped in an unusual spot, such as the pointy end or middle of the egg, or be struggling significantly beyond the typical hatching window. A stuck membrane may be the result of low humidity during incubation, causing it to dry out and become tough, making it difficult for the chick to zip out. A weak chick may lack the strength to break free from the shell due to health issues or developmental delays.
If you decide to assist a chick in hatching, there are several critical steps to follow. Firstly, ensure that you have given the chick ample time to hatch on its own. It is important to wait at least 24 hours after the first chick has hatched to assist a late hatcher. Sterilize your hands and any tools you use to prevent infection. Maintain high humidity levels during the assistance process to prevent the membranes from drying out. Carefully chip away small pieces of the shell, starting from the pip hole. Be extremely cautious not to tear the membrane, and if you notice blood vessels, stop, as this indicates the chick is not yet ready to hatch. Continuously monitor the chick's response, and if you notice signs of distress or bleeding, stop immediately and allow the chick to rest.
In very difficult cases, you may need to remove almost all of the shell and soak the membrane in a wet washcloth in the incubator. You can also decide to help remove the membrane itself, but this should be done with caution and is generally a last resort. It is important to understand the risks involved, as interfering too early or incorrectly can lead to injury or death of the chick.
To pierce the shell, you can use a nail or a sharp pointed object to carefully peck a tiny hole in the big end of the egg. Make sure to only peck a hole big enough to see if there is movement, and if you draw blood, stop immediately. Do not break off chunks of the shell, as this can cause the chick to dry out and die.
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Assisted hatching: what to avoid
Assisted hatching is a technique used to help embryos hatch from their zona pellucida (a thick layer of special proteins) and implant in the uterus. This technique is typically used for couples who have had one or more failed IVF cycles.
- Avoid acting too soon: If a chick has pipped the wrong end of the egg and is chirping and getting air, it is normal for this process to take over 24 hours. It is important to let them alone and keep an eye on them.
- Avoid breaking off chunks of the egg shell: When helping a chick out of its shell, only peck a hole big enough to see if there is movement. If you draw blood, stop, as the chick will quickly dry out and die.
- Avoid temperature fluctuations: When helping late hatchers, be careful not to let the temperature fluctuate too much when opening and closing the incubator.
- Avoid letting the bird run out of water: Most baby bird loss occurs because the bird does not start to eat or drink.
- Avoid using cheap Styrofoam incubators: It is recommended to buy quality incubators to maintain the proper temperature and humidity range.
- Avoid unnecessary use: Assisted hatching is not recommended for everyone as it has not been shown to improve pregnancy rates. It is specifically suggested for embryos that have been evaluated as having a poor prognosis or a thicker than normal zona pellucida. Additionally, there is no strong evidence of the safety and effectiveness of this procedure.
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Optimal hatching conditions
Planning and Preparation:
Firstly, ensure you have the right equipment. It is recommended to use an incubator with automatic features such as egg turning and a fan for even heat distribution. Choose an incubator with vents for air exchange and precise temperature and humidity control. The incubator should be placed in a suitable location, away from direct sunlight and drafts, such as near windows or doors. The ideal temperature for the incubator is around 99–101ºF, and it should be calibrated before adding any eggs to ensure accuracy.
Egg Collection and Storage:
Fertile eggs are required for hatching, and these can be obtained from poultry farmers with roosters or NPIP-certified flocks to reduce disease risk. Before incubation, eggs can be stored for up to 7 days in a cool room at 55-60 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid excessive handling of the eggs, as this can cause unnecessary agitation and potential damage.
Incubation Process:
Allow the eggs to slowly reach room temperature before placing them in the incubator to prevent thermal shock and potential damage. Position the eggs with the pointed end slightly lower than the broader side to ensure the embryo is in the proper position for hatching. Space the eggs evenly in the incubator for optimal heat distribution and adequate airflow. Increase ventilation as embryos grow bigger, especially from days 18-21.
Hatching and Aftercare:
The incubation period typically lasts 21 days, and during this time, it is crucial to maintain stable temperature and humidity levels. Avoid temperature fluctuations by planning for each opening and closing of the incubator. The first chicks may hatch as early as day 19, but it is common for hatching to continue until day 22. After hatching, provide the chicks with immediate access to water and feed to prevent dehydration and malnutrition.
Assisted Hatching:
In some cases, you may need to assist late-hatching chicks. Wait 24 hours after the first chicks have hatched before helping weak chicks. Candle the egg to find the air sac, then use a nail or sharp object to carefully make a tiny hole in the big end. Ensure the hole is only big enough to check for movement, and stop if you draw blood. The chick should draw out all the blood and fluid before hatching, and breaking off chunks of the shell can cause the chick to dry out and die.
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Preparing for the hatch
Day 18:
Stop egg-turning at day 18, with the larger end of the egg facing up. The chick will now position itself for hatching inside the egg. Increase ventilation as the embryos grow bigger, especially from days 18 to 21. Maintain a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit but increase humidity to 70%.
Preparing the Incubator:
Before placing the eggs inside the incubator, ensure it is thoroughly cleaned and sanitised with a 10% bleach solution, followed by warm soapy water, and then dried. Check that the incubator can maintain a constant temperature and humidity level. Place the incubator in an area with steady ambient temperatures and no drafts.
Fertile Eggs:
For hatching to occur, the eggs must be fertile. Collect them from hens housed with a rooster, or order them from a hatchery or poultry farmers with roosters. Ensure the eggs come from an NPIP-certified flock to reduce disease risk. Prior to incubation, store fertile eggs for a maximum of 7 days in a cool room at 55-60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Lockdown:
The last three days of the incubation period are known as lockdown. During this time, candle the eggs for the last time and prepare the incubator for hatching. Remove any non-developing eggs, as they can rot and contaminate the others. Increase humidity during lockdown by 8-10% compared to the incubation period. Higher humidity prevents the shell membrane from drying out and trapping the chick.
Assisted Hatching:
If a chick is malpositioned or appears to be struggling to hatch, you may need to assist. However, it is essential to give the chick time to absorb the yolk and complete the physiological processes of hatching. If you decide to assist, carefully create an external pip by opening the air sac, but be extremely cautious to avoid harming the chick.
After Hatching:
Leave the chicks in the incubator until they are dry and fluffy. They can survive on the absorbed egg yolk for up to 48 hours, so there is no rush to remove them. Provide water within the first 24 hours, as they need hydration and may not know how to drink yet. If hatched with an incubator, use a baby chicken waterer. Ensure the brooder setup is ready before removing the chicks, providing a warm, draft-free space, safe from predators, with bedding, a heat source, and a chick-sized feeder and waterer.
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Frequently asked questions
If your chick is too big to hatch, you will need to help it out of its shell. You can do this by candling the egg to find the air sac, then carefully making a tiny hole in the big end with a nail or sharp pointed object. If you draw blood, stop.
It is recommended to wait 24 hours after everyone else has hatched to help weak chicks out of their shells. However, if you notice that your chick has pipped the wrong end, it is best to let them be and keep an eye on them.
There are several reasons why chicks may not hatch. One common issue is improper temperature or humidity control. It is important to have a good thermometer to ensure you are getting an accurate reading. Additionally, from day 19 onwards, you should not turn, candle, or open the incubator unless necessary. Other reasons include not providing enough water or not turning the eggs regularly.
