
Baby chicks are sensitive to cold temperatures and rely on their mother's body heat to stay warm. If there is no mother hen, an artificial heat source is required. The ideal temperature for chicks, seven days old or younger, is 95 degrees F. Week two is 90, week three is 85. Each week, the temperature should decline by five degrees until the chicks are ready to live outside. In the winter, it is difficult to maintain the brooder temperature when the external temperature is below zero.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Ideal temperature for chicks | 95⁰F for the first week, then reduce by 5⁰F each week until room temperature is reached |
| Brooder lamp | Use a red bulb clipped over one side of the brooding area |
| Height of lamp | Adjust the height of the lamp accordingly; if chicks are crowded together directly under the heat source, they are cold |
| Brooding area | The temperature at the bottom should be 95-100⁰F for the first two weeks, then reduce by 5⁰F each week until chicks are a month old |
| Brooder location | Keep the brooder near a family's heat source, e.g. a wood-burning stove or fireplace |
| Space | The more space, the better; however, for cold-brooding, a smaller, cozy space is better as it retains heat |
| Drafts | Keep the brooder away from drafts |
| Heat source | Heat lamps are not recommended due to fire risk; use a radiant heat plate or a radiant warming unit instead |
| Monitoring | Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature |
| Cold-brooding | Keep the ambient temperature above 70⁰F; cold-brooding is best during late spring and summer |
| Number of chicks | The more chicks, the warmer they will be due to huddling together |
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What You'll Learn

Heat lamps are dangerous and confusing to use
Baby chicks need to be kept in a warm place until they are fully feathered. The ideal temperature for chicks, seven days old or younger, is 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Week two is 90, week three is 85, and the temperature should be reduced by five degrees each week until the chicks are ready to live outside.
Heat lamps are a common way to provide this warmth, but they can be dangerous and confusing to use. Here are some reasons why:
Fire Hazard
Heat lamps have a well-earned reputation for being a fire hazard. If a heat lamp falls into a brooder, the results can be tragic. Additionally, the bulb can explode if splashed with cold water. It is crucial to keep bulbs at least two feet away from combustible materials and to secure the lamp multiple times to prevent it from falling.
Overheating
Chicks can easily overheat, leading to a dangerous condition called pasty butt, where poop builds up around the vent area and eventually blocks it. This can be fatal if left untreated. Heat lamps make it challenging to control the temperature, and chicks may not be able to escape the heat if they get too warm.
Disruption of Sleep Cycles
Regular light bulbs used in heat lamps shine continuously, disrupting the normal light/dark sleep cycles of chicks. Infrared bulbs can be used to address this issue, but they also come with a risk of fire.
Cost and Electricity Usage
Heat lamps can be expensive and require a lot of electricity to run. Radiant heat sources, such as heating plates, are more cost-effective and safer alternatives.
Confusing Setup
Using a heat lamp requires careful consideration of wattage, bulb type, and distance from the chicks. It can be confusing and stressful for chicken keepers to determine the optimal setup, and there is a constant worry about whether the chicks are too hot or too cold.
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Radiant heat plates are safer than heat lamps
Keeping chicks warm in winter is essential, but it can be challenging to do so safely. Radiant heat plates are a safer alternative to heat lamps, which pose a significant fire risk. Heat lamps are also confusing to use and can be deadly to chicks if they overheat.
Radiant heat plates, such as the Brinsea EcoGlow and the Producer's Pride brooder and coop heater, provide a more consistent and controlled heat source. They simulate a hen keeping her chicks warm and cosy beneath her feathers. The temperature can be adjusted to accommodate different bird sizes and growth stages, ensuring the chicks' comfort. Additionally, radiant heat plates emit heat from the bottom, allowing chicks to choose when they want warmth and when they don't, just like they would with a mother hen.
The Brinsea EcoGlow, for example, has adjustable legs to accommodate birds as they grow and comes with a plastic cover for easy cleaning. The Producer's Pride heater can be used horizontally and vertically and has three adjustable height settings. These heat plates are safer than heat lamps because they do not warm up the air in the brooder, reducing the risk of fire and overheating.
Radiant heat plates also use much less electricity than heat lamps, making them a more cost-effective option. They typically use only 15 watts of power, compared to 175 or 250 watts for a heat lamp. This lower power consumption also means less worry about the risk of fire. Additionally, radiant heat plates are easier to set up and require less constant monitoring than heat lamps, reducing the overall stress of keeping chicks warm.
Overall, radiant heat plates are a safer, more efficient, and more chick-friendly option for providing supplemental heat to chicks in winter than traditional heat lamps. They provide a more natural and adjustable heat source while reducing the risk of fire and overheating.
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The ideal temperature for chicks varies with their age
For the first week of a chick's life, the ideal temperature is around 95°F (35°C). This can be achieved using a brooder lamp or a radiant heat plate, which is safer than a heat lamp due to the fire risk associated with the latter. It is important to monitor the chicks' behaviour to ensure they are not too hot or too cold. If they are crowded together directly under the heat source, they are cold, and if they are at the edges of the brooding area, they are too hot.
After the first week, the temperature can be reduced by 5°F (2.8°C) each week until the chicks are a month old. By the fourth week, chicks can handle temperature fluctuations much better and will only need supplementary heat if the room temperature is below 70°F (21°C).
By the sixth week, chicks should be fully feathered and will no longer need supplementary heat. However, if the external temperature is below zero, it may be challenging to maintain the necessary brooder temperature. In this case, it is recommended to keep the chicks indoors, where it is easier to maintain the proper temperature.
In summary, the ideal temperature for chicks decreases gradually as they get older, from 95°F (35°C) in the first week to room temperature by the sixth week. This gradual reduction in temperature allows chicks to adjust to their environment and develop their feathers, which will help them regulate their body temperatures in the future.
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Mother hens know best how to keep chicks warm
Mother hens also know that not all chicks require the same degree of warmth at the same time. They keep their chicks warm by pulling them underneath their bodies with their beaks, and keeping them there until they are dry and fluffy. After the first day, she ensures they sleep underneath her in total darkness, and she is always available to them during the day if they are cold.
The younger the chicks, the more they need their mother's warmth. After the first week, chicks spend less and less time underneath their mothers, but they will crawl back under her feathers when they are chilly.
Mother hens also put safety first. They keep their chicks in darkness at night, and they keep them away from drafts. They also ensure their chicks are dry, as hypothermia due to wet conditions is a common cause of chick deaths.
If you are keeping chicks without a mother hen, it is best to plan according to the seasons. Keeping chicks warm in winter is difficult and expensive. It is recommended to keep them inside, where the temperature is above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. If you have a wood-burning stove or fireplace, keep the brooder nearby. You can also use a radiant warming unit, such as a Brinsea EcoGlow brooder, or a radiant heat plate.
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Cold-brooding works best in late spring and summer
The practice of cold-brooding is a method of raising chicks without heat. It is a traditional method, but it is important to note that there are risks involved. Chicks are at risk of getting chilled or stressed, which can be fatal. Therefore, it is recommended to have at least a dozen chicks if you plan to cold-brood, as they will huddle together for warmth. Additionally, it is more challenging and expensive to maintain an ambient temperature above 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter.
If you are considering cold-brooding, it is best to wait until late spring or summer when the temperatures are higher. In the Southern USA, summer temperatures can be so high that chicks do not require additional heat. Cold-brooding setups typically consist of two "rooms": one small, insulated compartment for chicks to huddle and warm up, and another larger compartment for feed, water, and space to move around.
While cold-brooding can be successful, it is essential to monitor chicks carefully, as they are susceptible to temperature fluctuations. It is also worth noting that some sources suggest brooding chicks in late winter may be beneficial, as the chicks will be better prepared for the following year's cold weather.
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Frequently asked questions
The ideal temperature for chicks depends on their age. For chicks seven days old or younger, the ideal temperature is 95°F. In the second week of life, this should be reduced to 90°F, and in the third week, it should be 85°F. Each week thereafter, the temperature can be reduced by 5°F until the chicks are ready to live outside.
The best way to keep chicks warm is to replicate the warmth provided by a mother hen. This can be done by using a radiant warming unit or a heat lamp. If using a heat lamp, it is important to be aware of the risk of fire and to ensure that the chicks are not too hot. Chicks should be given the option to move in and out of the light to regulate their body temperature.
If chicks are cold, they will crowd together directly under the heat source. They may also cheep unhappily or constantly if they are cold, stressed, or lost. Cold chicks may also develop Pasty Butt, a condition where their excrement clogs up their bottoms, which can be fatal if not addressed.
Chicks need a heat source until they are fully feathered, which usually occurs around six weeks of age. The brooder temperature should be gradually reduced each week until the chicks are ready to join the other chickens in the coop.











































