Chang's Yakitori Chicken Experience Over Binchotan

In the barbecue episode of David Chang's Netflix show Ugly Delicious, Chang visits Yakitori Masakichi in Meguro, Tokyo. There, he eats what he calls the best yakitori I've ever had, cooked over binchotan charcoal by chef Masahiko Kodama. Binchotan is a Japanese white charcoal that burns very cleanly, so it doesn't add any flavour to the chicken skewers.

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David Chang's love for Japanese food

Chef David Chang's love for Japanese food is well-known. After graduating from college, Chang moved to Japan to teach English. His grandfather, who is Korean, spoke Japanese and taught Chang about Japanese cuisine and culture. Chang's famous restaurant group, Momofuku, employs classic Japanese ingredients and techniques, reflecting his deep appreciation for Japanese food.

Chang's hit Netflix series, 'Ugly Delicious', showcases his love for Japanese cuisine, with three out of eight episodes based in Tokyo. In one episode, Chang visits Yakitori Masakichi in Meguro, a nondescript yakitori (grilled chicken skewer) restaurant. Here, Chef Masahiko Kodama grills Niigata-sourced chicken seasoned with Niigata salt over Japanese binchotan charcoal. Chang emotionally exclaims, "This is the best yakitori I've ever had".

In another episode dedicated to fried chicken, Chang starts at a Tokyo convenience store, highlighting the Japanese talent for frying. He also visits Den, where chef Zaiyu Hasegawa puts a playful twist on traditional dishes, serving Dentucky Fried Chicken in a KFC-replica box. Chang's admiration for Japanese food is further evident in his exploration of ramen, which he believes is affordable and representative of a counterculture that appealed to him during his time in Japan.

Chang's time in Japan and his grandfather's influence have clearly shaped his culinary journey. His integration of Japanese ingredients and techniques into his restaurants and his emotional connection to yakitori demonstrated in 'Ugly Delicious' showcase his deep love for Japanese food.

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Yakitori Masakichi in Meguro, Tokyo

Celebrity chef David Chang visited Yakitori Masakichi in Meguro, Tokyo, for his Netflix show Ugly Delicious. In the episode dedicated to barbecue, Chang visits yakitori (grilled chicken skewer) specialist Yakitori Masakichi, a nondescript restaurant with a charcoal grill, one table, and a counter. Behind the grill is expert barbecuer, chef Masahiko Kodama.

At Yakitori Masakichi, the chicken comes from Kodama’s home prefecture of Niigata and is seasoned with Niigata salt. The chicken is then grilled over Japanese binchotan charcoal. The menu includes a range of juicy chicken cuts, including tender negima (chicken thighs with Japanese leeks), chicken wings, chicken meatballs, chicken tail, and skin.

Chang was clearly impressed, saying, "This is the best yakitori I've ever had." He ordered the chicken omakase set of five varieties (¥1480), including chicken breast, neck, liver, meatball, and chicken wing. He also ordered the chicken tail and skin.

Reviews of Yakitori Masakichi are mixed. Some praise the quality of the grilled food, the prompt service, and the cozy atmosphere. However, others have criticised the restaurant for being overpriced, with limited choices of wine and other alcohol. The restaurant has a rating of 3.1 out of 5 on Tripadvisor.

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Chef Masahiko Kodama

Celebrity chef David Chang visited Yakitori Masakichi, a nondescript yakitori (grilled chicken skewer) restaurant in Meguro ward, Tokyo, during an episode of his Netflix show Ugly Delicious. Behind the grill was expert barbecuer and chef, Masahiko Kodama.

Chef Kodama grilled Niigata-sourced chicken seasoned with Niigata salt over Japanese binchotan charcoal. The chicken cuts on offer included negima (chicken thighs with Japanese leeks), chicken wings, and chicken meatballs. Chang was so impressed with the yakitori that he became emotional, saying, "This is the best yakitori I've ever had."

Michelin Gourmand Chef Masahiko Kodama is known for his mastery of yakitori, which he usually showcases at his very own restaurant in Tokyo. In December 2024, he brought his expertise to Manila, collaborating with Ginza Japanese restaurants to offer a limited-time yakitori omakase experience at The Counter at Ginza One. Chef Kodama personally cooked for guests, serving a Christmas yakitori omakase that included dishes such as the Christmas Salad, Chicken Liver Pate, Kamo Negima, and Momo or Chicken Thigh with their signature tare sauce.

Chef Kodama's exclusive 'Fuyu' (winter) omakase was also featured at The Counter from January 19-26, 2025. He continues to split his time between Tokyo and Manila, offering his authentic yakitori experience at The Counter for at least one week every month.

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Niigata-sourced chicken seasoned with Niigata salt

Celebrity chef David Chang is known for his love of Japanese food. In an episode of his Netflix show Ugly Delicious, Chang visits Yakitori Masakichi, a nondescript grilled chicken skewer restaurant in Meguro ward, Tokyo. The episode, dedicated to barbecue, features Chang's visit to Korea, Denmark, China, and different parts of the US before he lands in Yakitori Masakichi.

At Yakitori Masakichi, chef Masahiko Kodama grills Niigata-sourced chicken seasoned with Niigata salt over Japanese binchotan charcoal. Binchotan is a type of Japanese white charcoal that burns very clean, so it doesn't add any flavour to the chicken skewers. The grill burns at a low temperature of around 200 degrees Fahrenheit, allowing the meat to cook slowly. The chicken on offer includes chicken thighs with Japanese leeks, chicken wings, and chicken meatballs.

Diners can order from a menu featuring dozens of chicken cuts, including chicken heart, cartilage, thigh, skin, and even pure chicken fat. There are also usually tsukune, or skewered meatballs made of minced chicken mixed with tare and other ingredients.

After ordering, customers are served one sizzling skewer at a time, which is then allowed to cool briefly before being eaten. Condiments, including extra tare, chile-based powdered spice mix, or seasoned salt, may be provided at more formal yakitori parlours.

David Chang was so moved by the experience that he exclaimed, "This is the best yakitori I've ever had."

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Binchotan charcoal

Celebrity chef David Chang is known for his love of Japanese food and culture. In an episode of his Netflix series, Ugly Delicious, Chang visits Yakitori Masakichi in Meguro, Tokyo, where he samples yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) cooked over binchotan charcoal.

When lighting binchotan charcoal, it is important to avoid using chemicals or charcoal lighter fluid as this can affect the taste of the food. Instead, a charcoal chimney over a burner with a constant flame for 20-30 minutes is recommended. Binchotan charcoal can be extinguished and stored in an airtight container for reuse, preserving oxygen and minimising waste.

David Chang's experience at Yakitori Masakichi demonstrates the appeal of binchotan charcoal in Japanese cuisine, showcasing the unique flavours and textures it imparts to grilled chicken.

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