Sophie Bennett
Moving a broody hen and her chicks can be challenging, but it is sometimes necessary for their safety. Broody hens are determined to hatch their chicks and will only leave their nest 1-2 times a day to eat, drink, and relieve themselves. If a hen is sharing a nest with other hens, there is a risk of eggs being stolen or broken, and the eggs may be at irregular temperatures. Moving a broody hen and her chicks to a protected area can keep them safe and give them space to bond. It is best to move them at night, as they may settle back to sleep and wake up thinking they dreamed the move. It is also important to provide food and water close by so the hen can quickly leave the nest to get what she needs.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| When to move a broody hen | When she is at least 10 days into sitting on the nest or as late as the day the chicks hatch |
| How to move a broody hen | Place her in a portable container and move her to a quiet, confined, and dimly lit space away from predators |
| How to make the move less stressful | Move the hen at night, use a movable nest, and provide decoy eggs to ensure she's settled before giving her fertilized eggs |
| After moving a broody hen and her chicks | Keep them in a secure area until the mama hen seems comfortable, then slowly introduce them to the flock |
| Preparing the new location | Ensure the space is large enough for a nesting box, food, water, and a place for the hen to relieve herself |
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What You'll Learn
Move the hen and her chicks into a protected area
Moving a broody hen and her chicks into a protected area is necessary for their safety and comfort. Here are some detailed steps to achieve this:
Firstly, choose an appropriate location for the protected area, preferably somewhere inside the coop that won't require reintegration. This area should be large enough for the hen to move away from the nest to dust bathe, preen, eat, and drink without disturbing the nest. Ensure the area is well-ventilated, dry, and protected from predators and inclement weather. It should also be easily accessible for you to provide food and water.
Before moving the hen and her chicks, prepare the new area by setting up a brooding pen or a brooding box within the protected area. The brooding pen should be approximately 3 feet by 4 feet in size, while a brooding box should be around 14 to 16 inches square (smaller for bantam hens). The brooding box should mimic a nesting box environment, placed on the floor of the pen or within it, and lined with deep, dry, and fluffy litter.
Now, it's time to move the hen and her chicks. It is recommended to wait until the hen is at least 10 days into sitting on the nest before relocating her. If possible, move the whole nesting box with the hen and chicks inside to minimize stress. Alternatively, use a shallow flexible bucket or a plastic bus tub to transport the hen, as this reduces human contact during the move.
Once the hen and her chicks are in the protected area, ensure the bottom of the enclosure is lined securely to prevent the chicks from escaping. Provide a small feeder and waterer within easy reach for both the hen and her chicks. Keep the area clean and well-maintained, regularly checking for any signs of predators or vulnerabilities.
After the move, observe the hen's behavior. If she seems protective, you can gradually introduce her and her chicks to the rest of the flock, ensuring they still have access to their safe space. As the chicks grow, you may need to transition them to a larger pen or coop, and adjust the height of the feeder and waterer accordingly.
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Line the bottom of the cage to keep chicks safe
Lining the bottom of the cage is an important step in keeping chicks safe. Firstly, it is important to consider the type of cage being used. For example, if you are using a rabbit cage, you may want to line the outside with cardboard pieces to retain warmth. If you are using a wire crate, you can zip-tie chicken wire around the lower part of the crate to prevent predators from digging underneath.
When lining the bottom of the cage, you can use a layer of newspaper, puppy pads, potty pads, or cardboard. Some people also use pine bedding on top of puppy pads. This makes clean-up easier, as you can simply vacuum up any spilled food.
If you are keeping your chicks in a non-free-range setup, it is important to take extra precautions to protect them from predators. One way to do this is to lay hardware cloth (welded wire mesh) over the entire bottom of the enclosure, ensuring it overlaps with the walls. You can then bury the bottom of the enclosure in dirt so that the chickens don't have to walk on the wire.
Additionally, consider the temperature of the environment. If it is too hot, you may not need a lamp during the day, but you may still need one in the evening. If it is too cold, provide extra bedding or a heat source to keep the chicks warm.
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Provide food and water nearby
It is important to keep food and water close to the brooding hen's nest. This is because a broody hen consumes 80% less feed than usual and stops laying eggs while setting, so she needs to be well-nourished. Additionally, the hen will not leave the nest during the last three days of the 21-day setting period, so she must have access to food and water nearby.
The mother hen will bring her chicks to the food and water and teach them to eat and drink. You can feed the mother hen and her chicks chick starter grower feed. This feed is higher in protein and lower in calcium than layer feed, which is ideal since broody hens are not laying eggs. Scratch can also be offered to the broody hen as it has a high carbohydrate content that will provide extra calories.
It is recommended to use small feeders and waterers that are within easy reach of the hen and her chicks. These feeders and waterers should be placed near the nest, as the hen may not eat or drink much while she is sitting on the nest. However, it is important to ensure that the food and water cannot be tipped over and that they stay relatively clean.
When moving a broody hen, it is recommended to wait until it is dark outside and then cover her with a towel before gently placing her in her new nest. It is important to put dummy eggs under her so she will stay sitting on them. After the move, the hen can be left without food or water for up to 8 hours, as broody hens can go without for up to 48 hours. However, some sources recommend providing food and water immediately after the move, as well as a partial cover such as a towel to minimize distractions and reduce stress.
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Move the hen at night
Moving a broody hen and her chicks at night is a good practice as she is less likely to be upset by the change of scenery. It is important to be patient and only attempt to move the hen when she is fully committed to hatching the eggs. This can be determined by checking how many feathers are lifting, whether she is growling, and how long she has been sitting on the eggs. If the hen is in a nesting box, it is best to move the whole box with the hen and eggs inside. If not, move the hen and eggs together to avoid breaking the eggs.
When moving a broody hen at night, it is important to have a secure location prepared in advance. This location should be quiet, dark, and safe from predators. A small wooden crate with good ventilation, a dog carrier, or an empty barn stall with wire screening can be good options. It is also important to have feed, water, and a makeshift run set up in the new location before moving the hen.
To make the transition smoother, it is recommended to use movable nests or a hot water bottle to create a warm and inviting new nest. Additionally, marking the original eggs and removing any new eggs laid by other hens can help prevent a staggered hatch, where the broody hen abandons the developing eggs.
If you are introducing newly hatched chicks to a broody hen, it is best to do so at night when it is completely dark. The chicks should be less than 24 hours old and carefully slipped underneath the hen one at a time so that she believes she hatched them herself.
Overall, moving a broody hen and her chicks at night requires patience, preparation, and careful execution to ensure the hen's commitment to hatching the eggs and the safety and well-being of both the hen and the chicks.
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Reintroduce the hen and her chicks to the flock
Reintroducing a broody hen and her chicks to the flock can be a tricky process. It is recommended to wait until the chicks are around 5-6 weeks old before attempting this. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:
Prepare the Brooding Area
Before reintroducing the hen and her chicks, it is important to set up a suitable brooding area. This can be within the coop or in a separate structure. The brooding area should be approximately 3 feet by 4 feet, providing enough space for a nesting area and allowing the hen to move around comfortably. Ensure that the area is well-ventilated, dry, and protected from predators and harsh weather conditions.
Monitor the Hen's Commitment
Before moving the hen, it is crucial to assess her level of commitment to hatching the eggs. Observe her behaviour for a few days. A highly committed hen may pull out her feathers, leaving her abdomen and keel bone area exposed to make direct skin contact with the eggs to keep them warm. She may also only leave the nest 1-2 times a day to eat, drink, and relieve herself.
Choose the Right Time
It is generally recommended to wait until the hen is at least 10 days into sitting on the eggs before moving her. You can also opt to move her as late as the day the chicks hatch. Moving the hen too early or too late may disrupt the hatching process.
Provide a Protected Space
When reintroducing the hen and her chicks, it is essential to provide a protected space for them within the coop. This can be done by using a dog crate or a chicken-wired temporary enclosure. This will prevent the other hens from pecking at the mother hen and her chicks, as they re-establish the pecking order. Ensure that the protected space has a nesting area, food, and water for the mother hen and her chicks.
Monitor Their Integration
Once the hen and her chicks are back with the flock, keep a close eye on them. The mother hen will likely defend her chick if it is bullied or pecked by the other chickens. However, if the bullying is relentless, you may need to separate them for a few days until the chick is bigger and can fend for itself.
Provide Chick-Safe Amenities
Ensure that the water supply is chick-safe, meaning it is designed in a way that prevents the chick from accidentally drowning. Additionally, provide a supply of chick crumbs along with the normal hen food to cater to the nutritional needs of the growing chicks.
Remember, there are no set rules for reintroducing a broody hen and her chicks to the flock. Use your best judgment based on the behaviour and interactions you observe between the birds. With patience and careful monitoring, the hen and her chicks should be able to successfully integrate back into the flock.
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Frequently asked questions
A broody hen is one that starts to sit on a nest of eggs in the hopes of hatching them out into baby chicks. Some hens may also pull out their feathers to keep their skin warm against the eggs.
It is best to wait until the hen is at least 10 days into sitting before moving her. You can also move her as late as the day the chicks hatch. Moving a broody hen at night can also be more successful than during the day.
It is best to move the hen in a movable nest or a portable container, such as a bucket or a tub, to minimise the amount of human contact involved in the move. You should also ensure that the new nesting box is inviting, with dim lighting and free from predators.
Leave the hen and her chicks in a secured area until the mother hen seems ready to come out. You can then open the door to let them out, so they can start mingling with the rest of the flock.
