Sophie Bennett
Watching a mother hen raise her chicks is a wonderful experience, but it can also be stressful. The first step is to identify whether your hen is broody. This is fairly easy to do—she will be inside more than out, sitting on eggs more than socialising with the flock. Before assuming she is broody, check that she is not feeling ill or has been the victim of bullying. If she is healthy, you can then test her commitment to being broody and provide her with the best nesting pen. Once the chicks hatch, keep them contained in a safe space for the first seven days. After this, they can venture out into predator-safe outdoor spaces.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of eggs a broody hen can accommodate | About a dozen, depending on the size of the eggs |
| When to introduce chicks to a broody hen | During the day, when the hen is about a week into the incubation period |
| How to introduce chicks to a broody hen | Tuck the chicks gently under the hen one at a time, removing an egg for each chick added |
| How to know if the hen accepts the chicks | The hen will cluck excitedly, use her beak to push the chicks further underneath, and spread her wings out to accommodate them |
| How long to monitor the hen and chicks after introduction | At least a few hours, preferably for the first 7 days |
| When to separate the hen and chicks from the rest of the flock | When the chicks are old enough to live without their mother's assistance, usually when they start sleeping separately |
| How to separate the hen and chicks from the rest of the flock | Move them into a dog crate or cage on the floor of the coop, preferably at night |
| How to know if the hen is broody | The hen will have a "broody patch" on her breast where she has plucked out her own feathers to line the nest |
| How to encourage broodiness in a hen | Provide a safe nesting pen, ensure the hen is in good health, and give her about a week with eggs (fertile or not) under her |
| What to do if the hen rejects the chicks | Have a brooder set up to take the chicks |
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What You'll Learn
Broody hens can be used as surrogate mothers
If you want to use a broody hen as a surrogate mother, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure she is committed to being broody. Some hens give up on the task after a few days and abandon the nest. You should also ensure she is in good health, with plenty of fat reserves and free of parasites.
When it comes to giving the hen eggs to hatch, it's best to start each new broody hen's eggs at the same time so that all the eggs hatch around the same time. This way, the hen doesn't have to leave unhatched eggs to tend to the newly hatched chicks. A broody hen can accommodate about a dozen eggs of the same size that she normally lays, and they must all fit comfortably beneath her. If you want to add chicks to an existing flock, it's best to do so first thing in the morning when you can monitor the situation.
Using a broody hen as a surrogate mother has many advantages. She will do all the work, and you won't have to deal with stinky brooders or heat lamps. She will keep the chicks warm, protect them, and introduce them to the rest of the flock. She'll also teach them how to find food in the yard. However, it's important to be aware that some hens may reject or accidentally harm newly hatched chicks, so it's always good to have a backup plan, such as a brooder set up.
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Keep chicks and hen contained in a safe space for the first week
Keeping the chicks and hen contained in a safe space for the first week is important for their safety. Young chicks are vulnerable to many predators, including crows, ravens, and domestic cats.
Before the chicks hatch, it is important to ensure that your hen is committed to being broody and has everything she needs to be a successful surrogate. A healthy broody hen will have plenty of fat reserves, be parasite-free, and be in good physical condition. It is also crucial to provide her with a suitable nesting pen, including a dark and cozy spot for the eggs, a food and water station, and a separate location for her to relieve herself.
After the chicks hatch, you should keep them and the hen in a protected environment for at least the first week. This will allow the hen to keep the chicks warm, show them where the food and water are, and protect them from intruders. If possible, create a separate space within the coop or cage where the flock can see them but cannot get too close. This will ensure the safety of the chicks and the eggs while still allowing the hen to interact with the rest of the flock. Make sure to provide adequate ventilation and easy access to food and water for both the hen and the chicks.
During this first week, the hen will start moving off the nest more often, and the chicks will begin to explore. It is important to ensure that the area is secure and free from potential hazards. After the initial week, they can start to venture into carefully monitored, predator-safe outdoor spaces.
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Chicks are vulnerable to predators
Chicks raised without a mother hen and handled primarily by humans may not develop this awareness of danger. Normal behaviours such as startling at sudden movements or noises, or scattering at the sight of a dog or cat, can make them more vulnerable to predators, who will recognise these behaviours and exploit them.
To protect your chicks, you should keep them in a fully enclosed area when they are outdoors. You can start taking them outside for supervised stints once they are fully feathered, usually between 6-8 weeks of age. Choose warm, sunny days, and stay with them at all times.
Common chicken predators include hawks, eagles, owls, foxes, raccoons, bobcats, opossums, skunks, snakes, crows, and even domestic pets such as dogs and cats. These predators may exhibit patterns that can help you identify what animal is attacking your flock. For example, hawks, dogs, bobcats, owls, and coyotes tend to leave little behind after an attack. Smaller predators like skunks, raccoons, foxes, opossums, snakes, and cats tend to prey on chicks and eggs, with attacks usually occurring at night.
To keep your chicks safe, you can invest in shelters or use proper security methods such as mesh wiring, bird netting, or plastic poultry netting to cover their enclosure. Solar-powered blinking lights installed around the perimeter can also help deter predators, as the lights resemble the eyes of another predator. An automatic coop door is another useful feature, as it ensures the chicks are safely tucked in at night.
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Hens may reject or accidentally kill their chicks
While a mother hen raising her chicks is a heartwarming sight, sometimes things can go awry. It is not uncommon for a hen to accidentally crush her chicks or, in some cases, even kill them. This behaviour is more commonly observed in first-time mothers who are still getting used to their new hatchlings and may be confused.
If you notice that your hen is exhibiting aggressive behaviour towards her chicks, it is important to separate them, especially if the chicks have wounds. You can then try reintroducing them slowly, but only when you can supervise their interactions closely. This is because stressed hens may continue to peck at their chicks, and chickens can be cannibalistic, especially if their chicks are injured.
It is also important to give hens some alone time with their chicks as they hatch. If multiple hens are sitting on eggs together, it can lead to confusion, and the hens may attack or kill chicks that they perceive as unfamiliar. Most hens bond with their chicks through the egg by sound, so if the chicks sound different, they may be rejected.
Additionally, some hens are simply not good mothers. They may give up on their brood a few days after hatching or become overly aggressive and attack their chicks. In such cases, it is advisable to pull the chicks and brood them yourself or find another hen to act as a surrogate.
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Hens may need to be separated from the rest of the flock
It is not always necessary to separate a broody hen from the rest of the flock. However, there are some circumstances in which it may be beneficial.
Firstly, it is important to ensure the hen is committed to being broody and has the energy reserves to see the process through. If a hen gives up on the task, it may be necessary to separate her from the rest of the flock to prevent other hens from joining her in the nest. This can lead to overcrowding, which can alter the delicate humidity levels necessary for a healthy hatch.
Secondly, while rare, there have been instances of hens accidentally crushing their chicks or even killing them. If this behaviour is observed, it is essential to separate the hen from the rest of the flock to protect the chicks.
Thirdly, during the brooding process, it is crucial to provide the hen with a quiet, predator-proof space. If the flock is particularly large or active, it may be challenging to create a peaceful environment within the same space. In such cases, separating the hen can offer her the peace and privacy she needs to brood successfully.
Finally, after the chicks have hatched, it is recommended to keep them contained in a safe space for the first seven days. If the hen and her chicks are integrated with the flock too soon, the young chicks may be vulnerable to predators that typically leave adult birds alone. Therefore, temporarily separating the hen and her chicks can provide them with additional protection during this critical period.
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Frequently asked questions
Broodiness is controlled by instinct, hormones, and lighting conditions. It often occurs in the spring, but some hens will go broody all year round. You will know your hen is broody when she sits on her eggs more than she socialises or eats with the flock. She will also pluck out her own feathers to line her nest.
Make sure your hen is committed to being broody and is in good health. She will need plenty of fat reserves and to be parasite-free. You can test her commitment by providing her with a nesting pen. If she abandons the nest a few days later, she may not be ready.
Don't disturb the hen too much, as she may become stressed and accidentally squash the chicks. If you are worried some chicks are yet to hatch, you can put the egg to your ear and listen for pipping. On day 22, offer the hen and chicks some chick starter crumbles and fresh water in a shallow container.
Keep them contained in a safe space for the first seven days. After this, they can venture outside, but beware of predators such as crows, ravens, and domestic cats.
